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Pyle Battery Powered Portable PA System w/USB/SD/MP3 In |  |
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Ok here is my problem i have a system in my cherokee and it sounds sweet and all but my high powered head unit i think is drawing to much power. My subs are drawing 1200 watts and i have a 3F capacitor on them. But the subs are not the problem its the door speakers and rear speaks that is make my dvd head unit dim every time the bass hits. I have pyle 6*9 in the front and factor in the back the 6*9 are drawing 200 watts rms and have a max power handle of 400 watts per speaker. thats a total of 800 watts just for the front door speakers. Should i put a capacitor on for these speakers or should i buy another amp just to power the door speakers. one last thing when the power is off to the subs the head unit still dims when the bass hits only in the door speakers. O ya the battery in the truck is brand new and its more the big enough with 1000 cold crank amps and 1000 reserve amps. Help me solve my problem and tell me what to buy and what size to buy thanks alot
Your better bet would be the car audio forum than the radio forum. But what makes you say the speakers are "drawing" 200 watts RMS and what makes you think they are drawing that?
I'm asking as speaker coils are rated to handle x amount of power. Your speakers are rated for 200 watts RMS (Root mean square) In everyday terms , it means it can handle that amount of power constantly.. 400 watt max means the coils in the speaker can handle to 400 watts for split seconds without blowing open.
The speakers can only use what the amplifier puts out to them. if the dash unit is rated for say 50 watts a channel, it will only send out 50 watts a channel.. NO more as the finals (what makes the boom in amps) are only rated for x amount of power and no more.
Most high dollar radio units you buy nowadays however have a warning to hook the unit power (usually red) direct to the battery as the power the radio needs is way more than what factory wiring is usually rated for .
Do as I said, hook the 12v power lead direct to the battery, ground it either at the battery also or to a good ground close by (there are two schools of thought on it, and for noise I believe it's as close to the ground as possible) and see if it dims still, if yes, then you will want to put amplifiers in to run your fronts as capacitors are used mainly to help on lows and for filtering if I remember by car stereo electronics
Also that's 1000 cold cranking amps and usually 100 reserve amp hour... meaning the battery can deliver 1000 amps to power say a starter for a short burst at 32F/0C degrees. trying to draw that much all the time will kill the battery.. the 100 reserve amps means the battery can supply 100 amps for at least an hour (with lower current needs allowing for longer times of providing power)
But after what I suggested with the power cables for the radio would be to talk to a pro shop about your wants and they can suggest ideas for you
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Pyle Battery Powered Portable PA System w/USB/SD/MP3 In | |
|
US $219.95 | 8d 7h 52m |
|
Pyle Battery Powered PA System with Wireless Mic | |
|
US $149.95 | 8d 7h 12m |
|
Pyle 300w VHF Wireless Battery Powered PA System W/Echo | |
|
US $149.95 | 8d 6h 58m |
|
Pyle 200-Watt Battery Powered PA System Wireless Mic | |
|
US $169.95 | 8d 6h 44m |
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Description120 Watts Continuous Power 240 Watts Output Surge Power 90 Optimum Efficiency Generates 115V/60 Cycles Compatible with Any 12V DC Power Source Replaceable Spade Fuse For use in Cars, Trucks, RVs, Boats and Aircraft Perfect for use with Video Game systems Built-In Cooling Fan |
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Exclusive Pyle PWMA230 200W VHF Wireless Battery Powered PA System By PYLE
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Why you can't do without a car audio capacitor.
I've heard the question asked many times before, 'Do I really
need a capacitor?' Before answering that question I ask, 'Do you
have a high powered system?' 'Does it require sudden power
bursts?' 'Is your amplifier being robbed of power?' If the
answers to my questions are yes, make every effort to connect a
capacitor to your car audio system.
A capacitor is a bit similar to your car battery; it stores
electrical energy. But unlike a battery it doesn't produce its
own power, it simply stores it. A car audio capacitor will help
you get the most from your amplifier. It will store power for
release on demand, delivering it to your amplifier just when
it's needed.
Your car amplifier requires a lot of power to play loud music,
especially when there's lots of heavy bass. Without a capacitor
your amplifier will be robbed of power by parts like your
lights, engine, and air conditioner.
So what happens when your car audio amplifier doesn't receive
enough power?
A common occurrence is dimming lights. In such a situation the
light will follow the beat of the music. The light will dim each
time a heavy bass note sounds. If you were to turn off the
lights, your car stereo system would suddenly sound louder and
the music would be cleaner.
Your amplifier is simply trying to use more energy than the
electrical system can supply. If a capacitor had been present
there would have been enough energy to power your amp. That
electrical energy would have already been stored.
When you want to reduce headlight dimming, improve bass
response, and increase the power of your amp, a stiffening
capacitor is a must. Equipped with capacitor and an adequate
power supply, your system will get every bit of current it
needs. Voltage drops will be a thing of the past.
With so many brands available online, it's easy to find a
capacitor that meets your needs. You can choose from popular
brands like Phoenix-Digital, Blitz-Audio, Kole-Audio, Pyramid,
SoundStorm, Lanzar, Power-Acoustik, Pyle, Legacy, Nitro-BMW,
SPL, and Volfenhag. No longer will your car amplifier be hungry
for power
About the Author
Mantius Cazaubon is a successful author and publisher of Car Stereos
Guide.com. A resource for information and tips on buying car
stereo and audio products online.
